Wednesday, May 21, 2008

Palate, Glendale



I went to a brand new restaurant that's doing everything right. It's Palate, just opened in Glendale, a scant seven minute drive from my home. Literally, it's 3 right turns. I'll be there a lot. This week is a "soft" opening, as they get the details together. The executive chef is the very talented Octavio Becerra, and the wine director is Steve Goldun, a man who knows a whole bunch about wine and has put together quite possibly the best wine program in this city. There was not a single item that we ate that wasn't exceptional: Becerra has a sure hand, a great imagination, and a passion for the best ingredients. Goldun has the sources, and put a list together that includes 50 wines by the glass, and they are not the boring wines you see everywhere else. For example, if you want to drink Chave Hermitage by the taste, glass, or quartino: YOU CAN! By the bottle, things get even deeper, and there are many wines with a fair amount of age. As Steve Goldun said, "I don't like young Bordeaux!" We drank a beautiful Lambrusco, a Huet Vouvray Sec, a lovely 2005 Beaune Cent Vignes (forgot producer), even Chateau Grillet by the glass!!! Every menu includes a wine list; why should only one person be able to look? This facilitates discussion and enables everybody to get in the act. Finally, the wine markup at Palate is reasonable and you don't feel like you're being hosed by the wine prices. Support this place!!!

Food included small plates of pickled peaches, fennel, and zucchini; house-made charcuterie; bread with house-made butter; potted chicken (like rillettes); squash blossoms with ricotta and tomato; cannelonni with spinach & parmesan; perfect risotto; pork belly with a lovely bitter salad that included radishes and bitter baby greens. Much of the food is conducive to sharing, and the prices are within reason.

So far, only the restaurant is open, but in the back there is a retail space (which will be a wine shop) and wine bar which will be open soon. The retail store will sell this great variety of truly interesting wines, and customers can bring their purchases into the restaurant for a minimal corkage fee.

I will be back soon and often, and am so happy to have a great wine spot and destination restaurant so close to my home!

Monday, May 19, 2008

Austin things; more composing


Was in Austin, TX this past weekend. There wasn't a lot of time, but I of course found a way to eat some pretty spectacular food, and see a small area of the city, particularly the area around South Congress Ave. I had a particularly satisfying pulled pork sandwich at a place called Jo's, a little coffee/sandwich stand; strong margaritas, and delicious tacos al pastor and enchiladas en mole at Güero's; even amazing chopped brisket at the airport barbecue place called Salt Lick.

Quite an impressive sight was some kind of organized dog walking day, a 3 mile walk for Austin's citizens and their dogs, on Saturday, which had its finish line on Congress Ave, just near our hotel. I've never seen so many dogs in one place, and even more remarkably, never heard dogs so silent, as I did that day. For the entire time I was out on South Congress, not a single dog barked. It was uncanny, and beautiful. Or just what happens after you subject thousands of dogs to a three-mile walk in 90-degree heat. Either way, it was something I'd never witnessed before.

Today through Thursday, I'll be back at the desk, continuing the composition and orchestration of the new piece I'm writing for big band. I'm excited, because this piece gives me a platform to try things I've always wanted to in an orchestral setting. At the same time, I'm trying to keep it simple, direct... not write the kitchen sink into it. My heroes seem always to have known that it wasn't how much you put INTO a piece or how complex you could make it, but how focused and how direct you could make it. I'm in the headspace of leaving things out, concentrating on melody and thematic development, and most of all, a strong groove and rhythm which roots it to the ground and to the tradition that it comes from. So... I'm on it. More later.

Sunday, May 11, 2008

rewind and forward from now




It was a beautiful afternoon here in LA, which I spent with my mom, for Mother's Day... talking about all kinds of things and enjoying a tasty brunch. Hungry Cat, in Hollywood, has a great burger. Days leading up till now had been a bit cloudy, and at my last-minute birthday party on Friday there was no sunset to speak of. In fact it has been quite cold in the evenings, and better to stay inside where it's warm. The party was a blast, with a small group of friends and delicious food: pizzas from Mozza, chickens from Pollo a la Brasa, Tuscan white beans with garlic & rosemary & good olive oil, burrata from basilicata and killer parmigiano. Other food highlights from recent weeks have been a particularly decadent meal at Cochon in New Orleans, with things like fried pig's ears, and pig cheeks; outstanding modern Vietnamese cooking at Slanted Door, fresh oysters at Hog Island Oyster Bar, and southwestern scrambled eggs with spicy sausage at the Pork Store, all three in SF; the fine casual cuban restaurant "Kuba-Kuba," the modern southern cooking at "Comfort," and the more haute "Verbena" in Richmond, VA; and a meal at the home of my friends David and Kim--who are wine importers and distributors--cooked by the talented chef Octavio Becerra which included a coddled egg in parmesan cream, creamy polenta, tomato relish, and pork cooked two ways (belly and chop). Wines have been too numerous to mention, at the highest rungs of the quality ladder, and might make you angry, jealous, or bored if I listed them all. But some highlights were 1990 Rayas, 1982 Cheval Blanc, 1959 Haut Brion, 1990 Pichon Lalande, 2001 D'Arenberg Dead Arm, 1989 Chave Hermitage Rouge, 1996/90/82 Chateau Margaux, 2006 Hudson Vineyards Chardonnay, 2004 Aubert Ritchie Vineyard Chardonnay, 2003 Jaboulet Hermitage La Chapelle, several Elio Grasso Barolos, 1990 Petrus, 1999 Harlan Estate. And that's really just a small sampling. Totally over-the top: these wines and others not mentioned have been unforgettable, and a true stepping-up of my wine education. Even the recent comparison between Charvin Chateauneuf-du-Pape 2005, and the same producer's 2005 Cotes-du-Rhone was a real eye-opener.

I had been moving fast with the composition of a new piece for jazz orchestra: themes coming easily, larger ideas for the architecture of the piece coalescing around the themes. And then as a fair amount of work on the road took over, I slowed down. Of course it wouldn't be the fault of all that eating and drinking. So now, a Sunday night, and I am focusing my mind to the work I want to do as the coming weeks pass. My goal is to be finished with the first draft by June 1, and schedule a read-through soon after. That will give me a couple more weeks to make revisions before embarking on tour June 24th. Being at VCU in Richmond, VA recently with a mentor of mine, the composer-arranger Doug Richards, gave me some insights to how to continue with the writing of this piece. Especially illuminating were his breakdowns of two disparate Gil Evans arrangements ("Flute Song" and "My Ship") during a class of his that I sat in on.

Also in the works finally are the US printing of NOVA, my collaborative CD with Chico Pinheiro, and shows in late August and early September to officially launch the record here. We will do our best to make it EASY to get here in the states, at stores and online, and you should begin to see press about it during that time frame. Chico has been in NYC the last two weeks, doing shows with a group that included Helio Alves, Claudio Roditi, and Duduka de Fonseca, and also some shows to launch "San Francisco," a new album by Brad Mehldau's wife Fleurine. I put together a trio with Larry Goldings and Jeff Hamilton, and played this past Tuesday at John Pisano's guitar night: this may be a trio that will do more in the future. Also, Josh Nelson is planning a new recording that will include Ben Wendel and myself, to be done in August.

Blogging about food has begun to seem a little strange to me. I'm trying to see how I might blog more comprehensively about my life and my process of creating and performing music, how these intersect with my experience of traveling & eating & drinking. People blog like crazy these days with the pictures of the food they eat, and sometimes not much more than a blurb which lists the dishes they had. But does this tell anybody anything? So I go to Osteria Mozza and take a picture of a plate of Bucatini all'Amatriciana, or I go to a taco truck and I photograph a plate of Tacos al Pastor. What of my EXPERIENCE is translated? Even the most picture-perfect presentations must, and generally do, give something more. I remember Restaurant Philippe Rochat, and that chef's beautifully composed dishes, but it's not what I'm interested in, essentially. Did the great food writers of yesteryear go around with Iphones and digital cameras interrupting the experience of their meals with pictures? I think I am becoming more interested in how various elements---the rhythms of working and traveling; the quest for delicious, non-processed, non-industrial foods and wines of high-quality, simply prepared, and the sense-memories that these foods and wines engender; practicing, composing, and performing original music and music with colleagues that I respect immensely; spending hours working in my garden---how these elements combine to make my LIFE what it is. Posting to my blog from this perspective keeps things personal, broader, somehow for me a more complete reflection of the person I am.

Having said that, I've included a picture of food and a picture of wine, from my recent trip to San Francisco (clustered around the oysters that's me with my great friend Dave Sokolin), as well as a picture of me with my good friend and inspiration Doug Richards on a warm spring day in Richmond, VA. These recent trips taught me important lessons about both the music AND the wines I love.

I'll keep up with updates as the days go on, some reflections and notes as I continue the process of writing this new work, and other thoughts as they come up.